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Florida Circumnavigational Saltwater Paddling Trail
Segment Six
Big Bend
Emergency contact information:
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911
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Wakulla County Sheriff’s Office:
850-926-0800
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Jefferson County Sheriff’s Office: 850-997-2523
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Taylor County Sheriff’s Office: 850-584-4225
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Dixie County Sheriff’s Office: 352-498-1220
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Levy County Sheriff’s Office: 352-486-5111
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Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation
Commission 24-hour wildlife emergency/boating under the influence
hotline: 1-888-404-3922
Begin: Wakulla
Beach
End: Cross Florida
Greenway spoil island campsite near Yankeetown
Distance: 172.5
miles
Duration: 16-17
days
Special Considerations:
This is a remote area where cell phone coverage can be
non-existent. Being properly equipped and prepared and leaving a float
plan is very important. Also, you may travel two to four days at a time
without being able to replenish fresh water supplies, and opportunities
for replenishing food supplies are also scarce, so plan accordingly. The
coast here can be very shallow and low tides can present a problem for
navigation and when seeking to land or launch. Keep a tide chart to help
plan your trip. You may have to paddle a mile or two off the coast
during extreme low tides.
The three St Marks refuge campsites are not yet
open. Please check back for updates.
Introduction
With the exception of the
Ten Thousand Islands/Everglades segment, this is the remotest segment of
the trail, featuring long stretches of unspoiled shoreline, marsh
expanses, and sea islands. The Big Bend also has the most stable
population of bay scallops in the state and the most intact seagrass
beds. These seagrass beds serve as vitally important nurseries for fish,
shrimp, crabs and a host of other marine species, one reason the Big
Bend Seagrasses Aquatic Preserve covers much of this segment. Spanning
more than 945,000 acres, the aquatic preserve is the largest and
possibly the most pristine in the state. To learn more, log onto
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/coastal/sites/bigbend/
Fortunately, much of the Big Bend coastline is in public ownership.
The first stretch of the trail, including three campsites, are part of
the St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge. Once these campsites are open, permits must be obtained for
camping and these may only be used by paddlers traversing the entire
refuge portion of this segment. A nominal one dollar per person per day
fee is charged, the same fee charged for long distance Florida Trail
hikers. Bear in mind that no camping is allowed other than at the
designated sites. Call (850) 925-6121 or e-mail
saintmarks@fws.gov for
more information. The almost 70,000-acre refuge was established in 1931
to provide wintering habitat for migratory birds. To learn more about
the St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge, log onto
http://www.fws.gov/saintmarks/
The next 105-mile stretch
of the trail, including six primitive campsites, is managed by the
Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC) as part of the
Big Bend Saltwater Paddling Trail. Free permits must be obtained before
using any of the campsites and you must paddle from top to bottom.
Campsites are limited to 8 persons and 4 backpacking size tents to
better protect the fragile coastal environment, a general rule to follow
along the entire segment. The six campsites are closed during the busy
July and August scallop season. These are not the best months for
overnight camping anyway. The FWC trail guide is recommended for
paddlers in this section as it provides more detailed information and
waterproof maps. For more information about FWC permits and how to
purchase the trail guide, log onto
http://myfwc.com/recreation/big_bend/paddling_trail.asp
Near the Suwannee River,
you’ll pass through lands managed by the Lower Suwannee National
Wildlife Refuge,
http://www.fws.gov/lowersuwannee The refuge covers
numerous islands and more than twenty miles of the famed river of song.
Near Cedar Key, the Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge encompasses
13 historic and wildlife-rich islands ranging in size from 1 to 120
acres, totaling 762 acres,
http://www.fws.gov/cedarkeys/
It is unlawful to camp on
either the Lower Suwannee or Cedar Keys national wildlife refuges.
Two state parks are part
of this segment—Econfina River and Waccasassa Bay Preserve. Econfina
River encompasses more than 3,000 acres of pine flatwoods, oak/palm
hammocks, and broad expanses of marsh and tree islands. The 34,000-acre
Waccasassa Bay Preserve State Park offers sweeping marsh vistas and tree
islands between Cedar Key and Yankeetown. To learn more about these two
parks, log onto
www.floridastateparks.org
There are many friendly
trail towns in this segment that offer restaurants, small grocery
stores, and some have motels. Advice and fishing yarns are generally
free of charge. Information on local communities along the trail can be
obtained by logging onto
www.steinhatcheetoperry.com
and
www.purewaterwilderness.com
Leave No Trace principles should be followed in camping at designated
primitive sites in order to keep them open for paddlers. To learn more
about Leave No Trace principles, log onto
http://www.lnt.org/main.html
1.
Wakulla Beach to St. Marks River Campsite, 6.5 miles
Wakulla Beach is a small
sand landing and beach that is an ideal access point for kayaks,
although it is not advisable to leave vehicles parked overnight. It is
the terminus of Wakulla Beach Road off Highway 98. Tidal creeks in the
area make for great side trips through more wild lands of the St. Marks
National Wildlife Refuge.
If you are on an extended
trip on the trail, having covered segment 5, you can skip Wakulla Beach
and paddle directly towards the St. Marks Lighthouse from Shell Point
and Live Oak Island. The lighthouse is visible along the eastern horizon
in good weather conditions.
The primitive campsite
for paddlers is on a spoil island near the mouth of the St. Marks River
about two miles from the lighthouse (see map). The campsite has a small
rise that provides for an excellent view of the area and it’s a good
spot to catch a breeze.
Note: There is no available fresh water until Econfina River
State Park. Plan on leaving with one gallon per person per day for 4
days.
2. St. Marks River Campsite to Ring Dike Campsite, 9.5 miles
A good rest stop is the St. Marks Lighthouse, a national historic site.
First built in 1829, but rebuilt more solidly two years later and then
again in 1842 and 1866, the lighthouse has withstood many severe
hurricanes and storms. One 1843 storm washed away every building except
for the tower, killing several people in the area except for the
lighthouse keeper’s family, who clung to the garret floor near the top
of the tower. Various lighthouse keepers lived at the site with their
families until the light became fully automated in 1960.
East of the lighthouse,
you’ll paddle an open stretch of water along an untrammeled shoreline of
trees and marsh. The Ring Dike Campsite is a mile up Deep Creek from the
Gulf. The campsite is distinguishable from the open marsh habitat by a
ring of large live oaks. With open views in all directions, this
campsite is one of the most scenic on the trail. Florida Trail hikers
who are traversing the refuge also use this campsite.
3. Ring Dike Campsite to Pinhook River Campsite, 8.5 miles
After cruising along a true Gulf Coast wilderness, you’ll paddle
approximately three miles up the Pinhook River. Keep to your left at
both forks in the river. At the wooden bridge, there is a small beach on
the northeast side where you can land. The campsite is approximately a
hundred yards on the northwest side of the bridge along an unpaved road,
then follow the blue blazes a short distance. This is also a Florida
Trail campsite. You should be able to paddle the ditch alongside the
road during high tide for closer access by boat.
4. Pinhook River Campsite to Econfina River State Park, 11.5
miles
After returning to the
Gulf, you’ll have more seemingly endless vistas of marsh and palm
hammocks as you pass the mouth of the Aucilla River. From the Aucilla,
it is about four miles to the mouth of the Econfina, and another 2.5
miles to the state park boat ramp.
A primitive campsite open
to paddlers is on the Econfina’s west bank, 0.4 miles downstream from
the public boat ramp. The site is free and requires no permit. If the
site is not available, then arrange for camping through the park
concessionaire at 850-584-2135 or visit the park store. Park camping is
near the scenic Econfina River with access to showers and
bathrooms. There is a fee.
The river above the boat
ramp is worth a paddle, made easier by a rising tide since there are
some small shoals. Large live oaks and other hardwoods arch over the
waterway, and numerous wildflowers often bloom along shore. The park
also features several miles of hiking trails that are best utilized in
cool weather when venomous snakes are dormant.
5. Econfina River State Park to Rock Island Campsite, 10.5 miles
(Permit required:
http://myfwc.com/recreation/big_bend/paddling_trail.asp )
Leave the state park with a 2-day supply of water.
An optional rest stop
about halfway to Rock Island is the Hickory Mound Impoundment, where
there is a picnic area and an observation tower. The tower will likely
be visible from the water. You’ll need the FWC trail guide for the best
route up a tidal creek to the picnic area.
Rock Island is the larger
of two offshore islands, where you can land in a narrow rocky cove on
the north side. The island, about 20 acres in size, is interesting to
explore, with its many tidal pools and exposed limestone. It can be
buggy in warm weather, however.
6. Rock Island Campsite to Spring Warrior Creek Campsite, 10
miles
(Permit required:
http://myfwc.com/recreation/big_bend/paddling_trail.asp )
Leaving the island, it is a little over two miles to the mouth of the
Fenholloway River, which may have an unpleasant smell due to effluent
from a paper mill. A good rest stop is Big Spring Creek, about three
miles past the Fenholloway, where you can access a picnic area and a
spring run (3 miles roundtrip).
About 3 miles from the
mouth of Big Spring Creek is the Spring Warrior channel marker. It is
1.6 miles to the campsite. Paddling up Spring Warrior can be challenging
in a falling tide. Before the campsite, you can obtain fresh water from
the Spring Warrior Fish Camp. If unattended, you can use a hose on the
side of the building. The campsite is along a bend on the right side
about a half-mile upstream from the fish camp. The campsite was once a
Thanksgiving gathering place for a local family. You can explore the
scenic river for about another mile upstream until logjams may restrict
passage.
7. Spring Warrior Creek Campsite to Sponge Point Campsite, 12.5
miles
(Permit required:
http://myfwc.com/recreation/big_bend/paddling_trail.asp )
As you cruise along the marsh, you may notice small outcroppings where
cedar trees are growing. These are often the brick and stone remnants of
Confederate saltworks where furnaces and iron kettles were set up during
the Civil War to boil seawater to obtain salt. Salt was vitally needed
to cure meat for the Confederate Army. Many of the salt works were
destroyed by Union raids near the end of the war.
A must stop is the county
park at Keaton Park where you can have a picnic, take an outdoor shower,
replenish water supplies, and eat in a nearby restaurant. There are a
couple of small convenience stores along the town’s main road. Leave
Keaton Beach with enough water for two days.
Sponge Point, marked by
majestic coastal live oak trees, appears to be an island as it is
separated from the mainland by an expanse of marsh. Its name was derived
from spongers that once frequented the Big Bend Coast. A massive 1940s
outbreak of red tide, coupled with the advent of synthetic sponges,
severely curtailed the native sponge industry. Be watchful of prickly
pear cacti when hiking the island.For restrooms and a covered picnic
shelter, you can paddle to Hagen’s Cove a half mile to the east,
although no camping is allowed.
8. Sponge Point Campsite to Dallus Creek Campsite, 8 miles
(Permit required:
http://myfwc.com/recreation/big_bend/paddling_trail.asp )
This is a short day along more shallow tidal creeks, but there are
several options to further explore the area. From your campsite, you can
paddle up Dallus Creek another 1.3 miles to a boat ramp and picnic area
where you can hike a 2-mile loop trail. During high tide, you can paddle
Dallus Creek past the boat ramp to its swampy origin or take a 3.5-mile
loop around Clay Creek (see FWC guide).
The remote campsite is in
a grove of coastal live oaks at the end of a cleared trail through
needlerush. Be watchful of rattlesnakes during warm weather.
9. Dallus Creek Campsite to Steinhatchee, 8 miles
Steinhatchee is the
largest town in this segment until you reach Cedar Key. Here, you can
rent a motel room or campsite, sample restaurant fare, and stock up on
supplies. You should arrange for your stay in advance by selecting a
motel or private campground utilizing either of these websites:
www.steinhatcheetoperry.com and
www.purewaterwilderness.com Bear in mind that
the only pub lic boat ramp in the area is across from Steinhatchee on
the south side of the river at Jena (see map).
10. Steinhatchee to Sink Creek Campsite, 10 miles
(Permit required:
http://myfwc.com/recreation/big_bend/paddling_trail.asp )
Sink Creek, one of the more remote spots along the trail, is an
island-like spot surrounded by tidal creeks, marsh and sand flats. It is
about a half mile in from the mouth of the creek on the south bank. A
high tide will make accessibility easier.
Behind the campsite at
low tide, you can hike the salt flats--an open sandy ribbon between
marsh and tree hammocks. Look for evidence of rising sea levels as many
cedars and other trees have died, leaving behind their naturally
sculpted trunks.
A brackish spring is a
quarter mile upstream near a remote boat ramp. Here, you can take a
swim, explore numerous small sinkholes, and hike the back roads for
great vistas. The spring area is where mullet fisherman camped and
traded salted fish for farm produce and other goods in the early 1900s.
A fish house once stood on the shore, but like many of the Big Bend’s
shoreline areas, storms and rising sea levels have erased most obvious
signs of human existence.
11. Sink Creek
Campsite to Butler Island Campsite, 12 miles
(Permit required:
http://myfwc.com/recreation/big_bend/paddling_trail.asp )
From the campsite, Bowlegs Point is a good rest stop, about 2.5 miles
away. Past the point, you can only cruise between Pepperfish Keys and
the mainland at high tide. Otherwise, stay on the Gulf side. Northern
Pepperfish Key is a bird rookery, so keep at least 300 feet from the
island so as not to disturb nesting wading birds.
A good rest stop near the
end of the day is a county park at the town of Horseshoe Beach. You can
replenish water supplies—enough for two days--and walk a short distance
to a convenience store and a restaurant.
The Butler Island
Campsite is 1.7 miles from Horseshoe Point, on the south side of the
island. Camping is beneath a canopy of live oaks, palms and a rare stand
of mature cedars, but beware of poison ivy. As with other sites, the
low-lying coontie palm grows here, a protected species. The starchy
tubers—poisonous if not prepared properly--were once an important food
source for Native Americans and early settlers.
12. Butler Island Campsite to Angler’s Resort Campsite in
Suwannee, 11.5 miles
This is a short day along more shallow tidal creeks, but there are
several options to further explore the area. From your campsite, you can
paddle up Dallus Creek another 1.3 miles to a boat ramp and picnic area
where you can hike a 2-mile loop trail. During high tide, you can paddle
Dallus Creek past the boat ramp to its swampy origin or take a 3.5-mile
loop around Clay Creek (see FWC guide). From Butler Island, you’ll pass
through a maze of oyster bars across Horseshoe Cove. As you enter the
Lower Suwannee National Wildlife Refuge, several tidal creeks offer
scenic paddling opportunities, and Fishbone Creek has an observation
tower about 1.5 miles from the mouth. If you want to explore the area
further, one option is to stay at the county campground at Shired
Island, about 5 miles from Butler Island. The campground has showers and
restrooms, but the water is not potable.
Several islands in the
refuge, such as Big Pine Island, offer inviting white sand beaches and
palm-lined shores, great for rest stops. Bear in mind that Cat Island,
near the mouth of Salt Creek, is privately owned but camping is allowed
on an emergency basis and it is an enjoyable rest stop. From Cat Island,
follow the navigational markers into the Salt Creek channel where you
can take a right just before the county boat ramp and wind around a
series of canals on the east side of town, where the Angler’s Resort is
along Highway 349. There is a small fee for primitive camping. Suwannee
has two restaurants within easy walking distance.
13. Angler’s Resort Campsite to Shell Mound Park campground, 12
miles
From the campsite, it is a fairly straight shot to the lower Suwannee
River via a canal. Paddle downstream to the river mouth through West
Pass, being wary of strong currents and boat traffic. Continuing
southeast along the coast, a good rest stop is the white sandy beach of
Deer Island. One option for camping near Deer Island is the private
Clark Island, where you can stay for a fee. Call Nature Coast
Expeditions at 352-543-6463 for more information. As with many areas
along the Big Bend, access at low tide can be tricky.
The county campground at
the Shell Mound County Park is inexpensive and on the water, although
the ramp can be difficult to reach at low tide. A half mile away, you
can access the boat ramp at the Shell Mound historic site at low tide
and walk to the campground if necessary.
The historic shell mound
is a must see. This five-acre, 28-foot tall Timucuan Indian mound
affords a panoramic view of a Gulf Coast wilderness. It was primarily
built from discarded oyster and scallop shells over the course of
generations that may have spanned 3500 years.
14. Shell Mound Campground to Hall Creek Campsite, 10 miles
The shortest route is to paddle close to the mainland and pass beneath
the bridge to Cedar Key on your way to Hall Creek. You’ll pass numerous
small islands on your way. Hall Creek, Kelly Creek, Waccasassa River and
Turtle Creek campsites are part of the Waccasassa Bay Preserve State
Park and are available free of charge on a first-come, first-serve
basis. The campsites are not exclusively for paddlers, so you may be
sharing them with boaters.
If you seek to visit the
historic town of Cedar Key, cross under the bridge and paddle around
Scale Key to a cove on the southwest part of town where you can land at
the Cedar Key Park (see map). This will add up to two miles to your day.
At Cedar Key, you can buy groceries, eat in a restaurant, visit a
museum, and peruse numerous shops. In the late 1800s, Cedar Key was a
major port city and processor of cedar logs for the pencil industry.
Several factors contributed to its downfall: hurricanes, the emergence
of Tampa as a major port, and the depletion of old-growth cedar trees.
Today, tourism is a major industry. Cedar Key is also known for its
tasty clams.
One option is to stay at
Cedar Key in one of many waterfront motels and kayak to the scenic
islands of the Cedar Key National Wildlife Refuge. All beaches along the
islands are open for public access with the exception of Seahorse Key
from March 1 through June 30 due to bird nesting. Atsena Otie Island, a
half mile south of Cedar Key, is the only island where the interior is
open for hiking year-round. Here, you can view an explanatory kiosk and
the historic ruins of the Faber cedar mill near the dock and walk to the
eastern end of the island to view the historic cemetery.
Seahorse Key is another
must stop when the beaches are open. This former prison for Confederate
soldiers has the highest elevation on Florida’s west coast, rising 52
feet. Other nearby islands include Snake Key and North Key. The
interiors of these islands are closed to the public, and for good
reason. They have venomous snakes and thick undergrowth.
For information on
lodging, restaurants and other Cedar Key offerings, log onto the Cedar
Key Chamber of Commerce website at
http://www.cedarkey.org/
If staying at Cedar Key, be sure to take the historic walking tour.
Brochures can be purchased from the Cedar Key Historical Society Museum
in the old downtown.
If paddling from the
Shell Mound Campground to the spoil island campsite near Yankeetown and
beyond, skipping Cedar Key, be sure to bring enough water for four to
five days.
After entering Hall
Creek, follow the winding main channel through the marsh to the first
tree island on the left. You’ll see a small side creek that takes you
closer to this one-acre site.
15. Hall Creek Campsite to Kelly Creek Campsite, 8 miles
Kelly Creek is another
unspoiled tidal creek along the marshy coast. The campsite is about a
mile upstream from the mouth of Kelly Creek. After entering the mouth,
stay in the main channel as you proceed up the creek. You’ll begin
passing through an area of bleached dead cedars and palms. The campsite
is a large 2-3 acre tree island on the right. Land on the backside
(north) where you can more easily get out of the current. There’s plenty
of room to spread out and the island has a stone fire ring.
16. Kelly Creek Campsite to Waccasassa River Campsite 7 miles
One option for this day is to paddle up the Waccasassa River, initially
following channel markers that stretch into the bay. The campsite is
along a small side creek on the west side of the river called Double
Barrel Creek. If you’re not a thru paddler, you can access this area
from a remote boat ramp along the upper Waccasassa River at the end of
County Road 326 near Gulf Hammock, about 4 miles upriver from the river
campsite.
If skipping the
Waccasassa River campsite, it is 10 miles from the Kelly Creek Campsite
to the Turtle Creek Campsite.
17. Waccasassa River Campsite to Turtle Creek Campsite, 7 miles
After entering Turtle
Creek Bay, proceed inland to an obvious fork. Take the left fork and
follow the obvious channel past several tree islands and a small
primitive landing at the terminus of a tree-covered peninsula on your
right. The campsite is along this peninsula at another shell landing.
Camp anywhere near the landing. The campsite is a little more than a
mile from the fork. Because this is a peninsula, you can stretch your
legs by hiking along several unpaved roads. Turpentining and salt-making
operations were once common in the area.
18. Turtle Creek Campsite to Cross Florida Greenway Spoil Island
Campsite, 14 miles
It may seem that the wild tidal creeks, marshy vistas and scenic tree
islands will never end as you paddle to the boat ramp near Yankeetown at
the mouth of the Withlacoochee River. The town itself is 3.5 miles up
the Withlacoochee River where limited supplies can be obtained. B’s Fish
Camp and Marina in Yankeetown offers tent camping with showers,
restrooms and a small grocery store. Yankeetown is a picturesque fishing
village with old-growth trees and stately homes.
The spoil island campsite
is about two miles past the ramp (see map for GPS point). This island
was created by dredging a channel for the now defunct Cross Florida
Barge Canal. The old canal lands are now primarily managed for
recreation as part of the Cross Florida Greenway
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/gwt/cfg/default.htm Primitive
camping is on a first-come, first-serve basis.
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