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Florida Circumnavigational Saltwater Paddling Trail
Segment Five
Crooked River / Ochlockonee Bay
Emergency contact information:
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911
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Franklin County Sheriff’s Office: 850-670-8500
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Wakulla County Sheriff’s Office: 850-926-0800
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Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation
Commission 24-hour wildlife emergency/boating under the influence
hotline: 1-888-404-3922
Begin: St. George
Island State Park
End: Wakulla Beach
Distance: 72-76
miles
Duration: 6 days
Special Considerations:
Extreme caution is
advised in paddling open water areas from St. George Island to
Carrabelle and in paddling across Ochlockonee Bay.
Introduction
From traditional fishing
communities to wild stretches of shoreline, tidal creeks and rivers,
this segment is one where paddlers can steep themselves in “Old
Florida.” This is also the only segment where paddlers can follow two
scenic rivers for a significant distance: the Crooked and Ochlockonee
rivers. The Crooked River is the only area along the trail where
paddlers have a good chance of spotting a Florida black bear. Several
hundred black bears roam the Tate’s Hell/Apalachicola National Forest
area, one of six major black bear havens in the state. Florida black
bears are protected under Florida law and have never been known to
attack humans. Keep food and garbage tightly packed in kayak hatches at
night or hanging in a bag from a tree branch at least eight feet off the
ground.
In paddling the Crooked
River paddlers will enjoy a slice of the untrammeled 200,000-plus-acre
Tate’s Hell State Forest. For more information, log onto
http://www.fl-dof.com/state_forests/tates_hell.html This
scenic route also features Ochlockonee River State Park where there is a
full-service campground a short distance from the water. For more
information about the park, log onto
http://www.floridastateparks.org/ochlockoneeriver/default.cfm
For camping reservations, contact Reserve America at (800)
326-3521 or log onto
www.reserveamerica.com
Along the coast, paddlers
can observe a major geologic change. St. George and Dog islands mark the
end of a chain of barrier islands that have been formed by sediments
deposited by the Apalachicola and Ochlockonee rivers. The numerous wild
islands east of Ochlockonee Bay are chunks of land that have been
isolated by a millennia of rising sea levels, thus the reason why their
shapes are not as elongated.
Dr. Julian Bruce St. George and Bald Point state parks are natural
highlights along the coast. Paddlers can enjoy camping in both of these
premier parks and explore wild coves and shoreline. In the case of Bald
Point, miles of winding tidal creeks lead to unspoiled lakes and ponds.
Both parks also offer hiking opportunities. To learn more, log onto
www.FloridaStateParks.org
Other public lands include a scenic county park at Mashes Sands along
the east side of Ochlockonee Bay, and state lands along Dickerson Bay
near Panacea that have been purchased under the Florida Forever program.
The St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge accounts for miles of undeveloped
shoreline in this segment. Numerous small streams that wind through
unspoiled expanses of marsh and coastal forests in the refuge offer
countless hours of paddling enjoyment. The 68,000-acre refuge was
established in 1931 to provide wintering habitat for migratory birds. To
learn more about the St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge, log onto
http://www.fws.gov/saintmarks/
A good day trip is to paddle the Alligator Harbor Aquatic Preserve,
which is enclosed by the Alligator Point sand spit. This area is a
pristine coastal water body and its seagrass beds and salt marshes serve
as important nursery grounds and refuges for a variety of sea life.
There are also several clam leases in the preserve marked by PVC poles.
To learn more, log onto:
http://www.dep.state.fl.us/coastal/sites/alligator/
Leave No Trace principles should be followed in camping at designated
primitive sites in order to keep them open for paddlers. To learn more
about Leave No Trace principles, log onto
http://www.lnt.org/main.html
1.
St. George Island to Carrabelle Campsite, 11.5 miles
This segment begins at
the scenic Gap Point primitive campsite across the small bay from the
park’s first boat ramp (rental sit-on-top kayaks can be obtained here
after making arrangements at entrance station). There is one more
primitive campsite along the bay in the park (see map). Call the park
headquarters at 850 927-2111 if you plan to utilize either of these two
campsites.
From St. George, you can
proceed northeast to the end of the island before paddling diagonally
across the bay toward Carrabelle. Look for oyster tongers who have
helped to make Apalachicola Bay world famous as a hugely productive
estuary. Along the mainland, you can take a rest break at the Carrabelle
Beach Park, where there is fresh water, restrooms and picnic shelters
(see map).
Primitive camping is
along a sandy spit of state-owned land near Carrabelle. You can camp on
sand flats just in from the shore or walk farther inland along an
unpaved road. Make sure to heed signs that may alert visitors to
shorebird or sea turtle nest sites that may exist from April through the
summer months. No reservations or fees are necessary.
2. Carrabelle Campsite to Crooked River
Campsite Z, 15 miles
Carrabelle is a good supply stop where you can easily access a
medium-sized supermarket, post office and a library from the city ramp
along the Carrabelle River. You may want to take note of the police
station; it is a telephone booth.
Campsites along the
Crooked River are $5 per night and can be reserved by phone, but you
must pay by mailing a check or by paying in person. The address of the
forest headquarters just south of Carrabelle is: 290 Airport Road,
Carrabelle, FL 32322. The phone # is: 850-697-3734. By kayak, you can
land at the Timber Island public ramp and walk a little more than a mile
to the headquarters. When you reach Highway 98, veer left and you’ll
see Airport Road on your right and a sign for the headquarters. Bear in
mind that campsites S, T and X are also hunt campsites that are
generally occupied from November 11th through February 2nd. Campsites
Y, Z, AA and FF are mixed-use campsites that cannot be reserved for the
entire hunting season, so you should have better luck at reserving them
during this period. Campsite Y has three sites in a row, good for
groups, and Campsite FF has 13 sites, good for very large groups.
The Crooked River is
aptly named, with numerous twists and turns. After Carrabelle, most of
the river is completely undeveloped. For a shorter day, it is about 8.8
miles from the Carrabelle Campsite to Crooked River Campsite T.
3. Crooked River Campsite Z to Ochlockonee
River State Park, 15.5 miles
From Campsite Z, you have the option of a shorter day by camping at
Campsite Y, about 7.5 miles, or paddling another 2 miles to Campsite X.
If paddling to the state park, leave the Crooked River and head down the
Ochlockonee River past the exposed pilings of an old railroad bridge.
The state park is on the northern shore. You can land near the park boat
ramp and access the main campground by walking about a quarter of a
mile.
If you are in a group,
another option is to utilize the isolated youth camp on the shore of the
Dead River just off the Ochlockonee River. It is available to adult
groups of six or more on a first-come, first-serve basis, or you can
make advanced reservations for organized youth groups. Call the park at
850-962-2771 for more information and to check on availability. Be sure
to hike the park’s scenic nature trail through open pine flatwoods. Scan
the mature pines for cavities of the endangered red-cockaded woodpecker,
the only native woodpecker that nests in living trees. You might also
glimpse some of the park’s unusual white squirrels.
As an option to staying
at the state park, you can proceed north about two miles from the
Crooked River junction to Tate’s Hell State Forest campsite FF. This is
a more developed first-come, first-serve campground—featuring hot
showers—for only $5 a night.
4. Ochlockonee River State Park to Chaires
Creek Campsite at Bald Point State Park, 11 miles Head
south on the ever-widening Ochlockonee River to the bay. One option for
camping is the Holiday Campground just before the bay bridge on the
left. The campground offers a bathhouse, Laundromat, pool and recreation
room. To make reservations, call (850) 984-5757. For more information,
log onto
www.holidaycampground.com
From the bridge area, hug
the southern shore a little less than 2 miles to Chaires Creek in Bald
Point State Park. Proceed up the creek about a mile to the primitive
campsite on your left. A second campsite is less than a mile away near a
small bridge along a western branch of the creek. Call the park
headquarters at 850-349-9146 if you plan to use either of these two
sites.
For side trips, you can
follow Chaires Creek all the way to Tucker Lake if the tide is right, or
take more narrow creeks to small ponds. Part of the beauty of this
marshy wilderness is the lack of human-made noises. Jet and highway
noises are generally absent. Only occasional boats can be heard.From the
campsite, you can link up with the park’s many miles of scenic hiking
trails and unpaved roads. More than 500 different plant species and over
230 different animal species have been documented in the park. More
species will likely flourish here as restoration of former slash pine
timber plantations continues. With luck, you may glimpse one of the
area’s Florida black bears. In autumn, monarch butterflies often pause
here before their bold migration across the Gulf of Mexico.
For birdwatchers, Bald
Point is an exciting place to explore. According to the Great Florida
Birding Trail guide, raptors such as peregrine falcons and harriers
migrate along the shore in October. Black-bellied plovers and dunlins
are seen in winter, and springtime often heralds colorful indigo
buntings and other songbirds. Year-round residents include brown-headed
nuthatches in the piney woods and clapper rails in the extensive
marshlands.
5. Bald Point State Park to Spring Creek,
12-15 miles
From Chaires Creek, be watchful of
high winds as you cross the wide Ochlockonee Bay. Mashes Sands County
Park, at the head of the bay on the east side, offers a good rest stop
with picnic tables and restrooms. You can then wind around the islands
of scenic Dickerson Bay with the option of stopping on a small beach in
order to visit Gulf Specimen Marine Lab and Aquarium (small entrance fee
required) just across the road. The aquarium features marine exhibits
and touch tanks, focusing more on smaller marine life such as seahorses,
rays, starfish, urchins, crabs, anemones, octopuses, jellyfish, spiny
boxfish, sea turtles, small sharks, eels and a variety of fish. No
leaping dolphin acts. You can picnic here or stop at a city park just to
the east, where you can land along a tiny creek near a fishing pier. A
blue crab festival occurs here during the first weekend in May. Both of
these Panacea access points are marked on the map. Numerous restaurants
and a grocery store are within easy walking distance.
Another access point and
kayak launch marked on the map is the Wakulla County Visitor’s Center,
where you can use restrooms and learn more about the area. Across the
road is the Panacea Mineral Springs Park, site of an old motel that once
housed visitors seeking the healing qualities of this natural sulfur
spring.
Paddling into Dickerson
Bay and stopping at Panacea will add two to three miles to your day.
From Panacea, you can
cruise on the inside of Piney Island and traverse Oyster Bay. You can
take a short cut to Spring Creek via a small creek, or you can round the
point near Shell Point and take Spring Creek north. At the town of
Spring Creek, tent camping for a small fee is at a small RV camp at a
boat landing. An abandoned white building that once served as a crab
processing house borders one side of the camp. Restrooms are available,
but no showers. A nearby restaurant is open for dinner. Curator of the
site is Lee Spears.
Spring Creek is a
traditional fishing community that is under tremendous development
pressure as coastal land prices soar and historic fishing activities
fade due to changes in net regulations. For now, you can enjoy a taste
of Old Florida by viewing historic tin-roofed buildings, old docks, and
derelict fishing vessels. More importantly, several residents are
fifth-generation commercial fishermen who often regale visitors with
tales of fishing on the open water and in the areas tidal creeks and
bays.
Take time to explore
around Spring Creek by kayak as several high magnitude springs can be
seen in and around the camp and along small inlets. Researchers believe
that these springs connect with Wakulla Springs to the north, although
water discharge has mysteriously diminished, beginning in 2006.
From the campground, you
can paddle up palm-lined Spring Creek about two miles until it narrows
and becomes impassable with fallen trees. In spring, look for blooming
purple flag irises, clusters of yellow senecio flowers, and the white
blooms of duck potato. Bald eagles are commonly seen in cool months, and
on warm sunny days, alligators often sun themselves along the shore and
on fallen logs. As you travel inland, look for freshwater-loving
cypress, live oak and bay trees. The brown tint of the water is
generally due to harmless tannins released by fallen leaves and other
decomposing vegetation from swamps that feed the stream. Most of this
stretch falls under the protected auspices of the St. Marks National
Wildlife Refuge.
6. Spring Creek to Wakulla Beach, 7-8 miles
As you journey down Spring Creek toward the Gulf, you can deviate from
the marked serpentine channel if the tide has covered the numerous
oyster bars, one advantage of a shallow-water kayak. You can take a
break at the Shell Point Beach, a public park, where there are picnic
tables and restrooms.
From Shell Point and Live
Oak Island, dip north into Goose Creek Bay. Wakulla Beach is a small
sand landing and beach that is an ideal access point for kayaks. It is
the terminus of Wakulla Beach Road off Highway 98. Tidal creeks in the
area make for great side trips through more wild lands of the St. Marks
National Wildlife Refuge.
If you are on an extended
day trip on the trail, you can skip Wakulla Beach and paddle directly
towards the St. Marks Lighthouse, visible along the eastern horizon in
good weather conditions. A primitive campsite is being planned for a
spoil island near the mouth of the river about two miles from the
lighthouse.
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